“Lots of LGBT people would come here I had gay and lesbian bar staff. “Artists could express themselves and be transgressive,” says Simó. This movida valenciana is now widely cherished as a time when avant garde artists, designers and musicians rejoiced in the liberty granted after the end of the Franco dictatorship in 1975.
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“Punks, skinheads, mods, rockabillies, psychobillies, new romantics – they were all there,” he says. According to Joan Oleaque, author of the book In Ecstasy: Bakalao as Counterculture in Spain, one of this party trail’s triumphs was its social function, uniting disparate urban subcultures. While Madrid had the La Movida Madrileña (the radical punk wave that birthed Pedro Almodóvar, Alaska and Ouka Leele), La Ruta was Valencia’s own movida. Punks, skinheads, mods, rockabillies, psychobillies, new romantics – they were all there Joan Oleaque “Guitars combined with the most avant garde techno of the time – that wasn’t common.” Before the arrival of Technics decks, it was an electrifying mix. “We played everything: electronic music from Miami, industrial music from Chicago,” he recalls, as we approach the venue, a strikingly designed former rice warehouse, where he played for 16 years. Here, he mixed his favourites from British post-punk – Bauhaus, Sisters of Mercy, Siouxsie and the Banshees – with industrial rock bands such as Ministry and the electronic sounds of Nitzer Ebb, Renegade Soundwave and Underworld. Other clubs opened nearby too, including Chocolate, famed for a more sinister sound Espiral, which released Dunne, an anthem from the era and Spook, still one of Valencia’s biggest techno venues.ĭriving me along the remains of this epic club crawl, known as La Ruta, is DJ José Conca, who began as resident DJ at Chocolate in the mid-80s. And it wasn’t just music: a night of revelry at Barraca also included performances by drag queens and experimental theatre groups like Tutú Droguería and Putreplastic. Come the end of the decade, British bands such as James, Inspiral Carpets, the Stone Roses and Happy Mondays would grace his stage.
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“English people would come and say, damn, there’s more English music being played here than in England!” recalls Simó. Carlos Simó, resident DJ at Barraca in the 1980s.